A French name on Laisvės alėja
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1897
Isakas Pikeris, who bought the corner plot five years earlier, has the architect Nikolajus Andrejevas rebuild the old brick house and add a wing along what is now Vasario 16-osios gatvė. The hotel that opens here takes a fashionable French name: Versalis, Versailles. The balcony railings are cast a few streets away, at the Minerva works.
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1904
After a bankruptcy and a spell in the hands of the Vilnius Land Bank, the hotel is bought by Dominykas Venckauskas. It has 19 rooms. His family will keep it until the Soviet state takes it from them.
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1908
In March the restaurant opens on the ground floor, in six rooms. A newspaper notice promises a first-class kitchen that cooks in the Polish, Russian, Lithuanian and French manner.
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1920
Kaunas is now the provisional capital. The government takes over the hotel as a club for foreign guests.
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1924
The cabaret years begin: ballet numbers, an American acrobatic troupe, dancers from Germany and Czechoslovakia. A granddaughter of two shareholders later remembered it as the only evening cabaret in the city. Tango is believed to have been danced in Lithuania for the first time in this house.
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1925
The entrance from Laisvės alėja is rebuilt with moulded lions' heads, a curved canopy and glazed doors. The hotel now has 40 rooms.
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1931
Ten months of building work under the architect E. Frykas bring central heating and running water. The newspaper Dienos naujienos calls Versalis the most modern restaurant with a dance floor in Lithuania. Danielius Dolskis sings here. On New Year's Eve a glass of champagne costs 10 litai and the doors stay open until five in the morning.
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1934
Antanas Šabaniauskas sings romances with the house orchestra. He is at the start of his career.
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1935
The satirical paper Kuntaplis complains that a boiled egg at Versalis costs one litas, more than a whole hen at the market.
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1937
Edvardas Venckauskas, who has inherited the house from his father, has a revolving stage built for the orchestra. One account dates it to 1935.
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1938
The bar prints its own drinks card: cocktails from 3 to 6 litai, krupnikas at 2.50. The card promises “the most modern, most beautiful dance hall in Lithuania”, the best kitchen and normal prices. The writer Henrikas Baltrušaitis describes a room lined in black velvet, kept by a bartender called Kiki.
On the dark walls and ceiling, butterflies and flowers gleam here and there.
The floor
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1939
The engineer Jokūbas Udalovas builds a large revolving dance floor into the middle of the hall, with a new bar beside it. There is no other in Lithuania. Max Borstein's band plays from the stage while the floor carries the dancers round. A photograph from that year shows a round floor, its boards laid like rays about a chequered centre.
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1940
The Soviet authorities nationalise the hotel and the restaurant.
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1941
Under German occupation the restaurant is renamed Viktorija.
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1948
The hotel becomes the Nemunas. The address moves with the times: Stalino prospektas 64 until 1962, then Laisvės alėja 88.
Found again
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1960s
The hall is now Jaunimo kavinė, the Youth Café. Regulars shorten it to Jaunimkė. When they find out what the place was called before the war, they start calling it Versalis again. The authorities do not like it.
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c. 1974
After a short refit the café reopens as Vakaras, Evening. The round floor beside the stage, forgotten since the 1930s, is put back to work and switched on whenever the band starts to play. A glass of good wine costs 76 kopecks. The music officially stops at 23:30. A few roubles to the musicians keep it going.
The pleasure is great only as long as you are more or less sober.
After independence
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1990
The hotel and the restaurant are privatised, and the old name returns to the door.
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2005
The building is entered in the Register of Cultural Heritage. Four years earlier the architectural historian Nijolė Lukšionytė-Tolvaišienė had written that no other hotel of the Tsarist period survives in Kaunas with its exterior, plan and interiors.
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2013
A decade of nightclubs begins in the hall: Chaosas, then Drama, then Rocknrollas. Each refit leaves the round floor in place. By now it is protected as part of the heritage.
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2024
The last club closes. Reconstruction of the whole corner begins, to a design by A keturi architektai.
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Now
The hall is being restored as a restaurant. The floor will turn again. Request a table
Sources
Accounts of Versalis disagree on several dates. Where they do, this page follows the archival chronology published in Kauno diena and says so.
- Alvydas Surblys, "Iš praeities į ateitį: vietos, menančios Versalį, metamorfozės", Kauno diena, 2024
- Lithuanian Jazz, "1920s–30s": the Versalis bar card and the 1939 photograph of the hall
- Marija Oniščik, "Laisvės alėjos nostalgija", 2017
- Romualdas Matelis, "Senosios Kauno knaipės: Versalis", 2013
- Atminties vietos, "Versalis": the testimony of Liuda Riaukienė
- Skirmantė Javaitytė, "Legendiniai laikinosios sostinės restoranai", Kas vyksta Kaune, 2018
- Pamatyk Lietuvoje, "Buvęs restoranas Versalis"
- LRT, "Žymusis Kauno restoranas Versalis"